Monday, August 10, 2009
The State-of-the-art Surfer
From the Beach Boys' ode to surfing:
"If everybody had an ocean
Across the U.S.A.
Then everybody'd be surfin'
You'd seem 'em wearing their baggies
Huarache sandals too
A bushy bushy blonde hairdo
Back in the sixties, the surfers I knew crammed their woodies with waxed-down wooden surfboards and headed out to the beach. In southern California where I lived, there was usually no need for wet suits, which were then considered kind of sissy.
How things have changed. The above gear, including the car, is streamlined and trendy. And there are bikes, too!
I have lived here 42 years and throughout that time, especially at the beginning, I have always wished certain things were available: mo...